Testing Berta: Chef Yossi Shitrit's New Mall Eatery Falls Short

Dining in shopping malls has long been a compromise, yet chefs continue to attempt elevating the food court experience. Chef Yossi Shitrit, renowned for his upscale culinary ventures, recently launched "Berta," an Italian eatery nestled inside the newly revamped food floor at Ramat Aviv Mall.

Positioned as a serious restaurant rather than a casual mall kiosk, Berta comes with high expectations and matching price tags. However, enjoying fine dining nuances becomes challenging amidst the bustling open-space hall, surrounded by running children, shoppers carrying heavy bags, and the ambient noise of a busy commercial hub.

The culinary journey began with a white fish carpaccio priced at 75 shekels. Served with half-grapes, cilantro, arugula, red chili, soy sauce, and pistachios, the dish featured raw sea bass—a choice that left the reviewer underwhelmed, accompanied by a remarkably minimal portion of fish.

Next came the panzanella salad at 72 shekels, offering large fresh cherry tomatoes, mozzarella shreds, and paper-thin bread slices that had already turned soggy. While the portion was generous, the seasoning fell short of expectations.

For the main course, the table sampled two contemporary Italian staples: cacio e pepe at 68 shekels and spaghetti al limone at 72 shekels. Both dishes utilized store-bought dried spaghetti cooked far beyond the ideal al dente stage, resulting in pasta that was simply too hard. The lemon pasta offered an overpowering citrus kick accompanied by pistachios and grated cheese, while the cacio e pepe remained disappointingly bland despite the black pepper.

Accompanied by a glass of Italian Barbera wine for 45 shekels and a Sprite for 13 shekels, the meal highlighted the eternal dilemma of mall dining: premium prices in a chaotic environment rarely translate to a satisfying gastronomic reward.