Italy's Iconic Espresso Bars Are Disappearing Amid Economic and Climate Pressures
Italy's iconic espresso bars are disappearing rapidly, with 20,000 cafes closing between 2019 and 2025 amid rising costs, climate pressures, and changing work habits.
The classic espresso bar is one of the most iconic symbols of Italy. A quick cappuccino at the counter, a small glass of water or soda on the side, a quick chat with the barista, and everyone goes on with their day. Yet this cultural institution is slowly vanishing from the streets of Italy. Between 2019 and 2025, the number of Italian cafes plummeted by 20,000, dropping from roughly 170,000 to 145,000—an average loss of 11 cafes every single day.
This dramatic decline translates into a staggering economic blow, accounting for a loss of 7.2 billion euros over the past six years when factoring in retail, employment, and tax revenues. The causes are multifaceted: soaring costs for raw materials, labor, and energy, shifting urban work habits, heavy competition from food delivery services, and declining consumer purchasing power. Italians increasingly choose to work remotely, investing in home espresso machines to brew coffee at home rather than frequenting traditional neighborhood spots.
The Cultural Impact of the Espresso Decline
Beyond the economic fallout, the disappearance of these social hubs fundamentally alters the urban landscape of Italian cities. Streets feel quieter, and vital community gathering spots vanish. Italians have a somber term for this phenomenon: "desertification." The espresso bar historically served as a democratic national institution bridging social, economic, and generational divides. Today, even in heavily touristed Rome, the number of cafes has dropped by over 30% in just six years.
Generation Z drinks significantly less coffee than older demographics, who view the beverage as a daily staple rather than a luxury. However, even loyal older customers struggle with price hikes, resisting increases from one euro to one euro twenty cents, even though bar owners are simply trying to survive. Traditionally, Italian bars relied on high customer turnover and massive volume, allowing them to maintain low profit margins per cup. Today, that business model is completely broken.
Climate Change and Supply Chain Pressures
"In a country that serves close to six billion cups of coffee every year, cafe owners used to absorb minor shocks, but the current compounding crises make traditional cheap coffee entirely unsustainable without facing bankruptcy."
Global climate change has also severely impacted coffee bean yields. Weather anomalies, severe droughts, and natural disasters directly affect growers, harvesting seasons, and international logistics. For cafe owners, price increases are not a choice but a matter of survival, though local communities often react with hostility. Italy remains the undisputed spiritual home of espresso culture, but as economic pressures mount, its most beloved daily ritual faces an uncertain future.
